Friday, June 2, 2023

Arrow Rock, Missouri

 On Memorial Day John and I traveled to Arrow Rock located in the western part of Missouri. The entire town was designated a National Historic Landmark in 1964. It has a many layered fascinating history, beginning with the presence of American Indians who gathered flint from a bluff above the Missouri River to make arrow points and tools. A French mapmaker Pierre d'Anville identified it as "Pierre a Fleche," literally meaning"Rock of Arrows".  As the Missouri River has since been channeled off from the area, the bluff cannot be seen; however we did find the historic site now operated by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources.

It was important for the first settlers of the town get needed supplies from the river and up the steep bluff. The historic site also marks the presence of a ferry landing in the next gap of the bluff, built in 1815. William Clark described the site as "a fine landing on a rocky shore under the Cliff and a gentle assent". In 1821 a small company of men crossed the river near the ferry landing, traveling west on what became the first successful trading expedition to Santa Fe. In 1822 the first wagons used on the Santa Fe Trail rendezvoused at the Arrow Rock bluff. The ferry landing and Santa Fe trail are marked out at the site pictured above. The above information I obtained from a leaflet printed by the Lewis and Clark Trial Heritage Foundation,Inc.
J.Huston Tavern

The earliest travelers on the Santa Fe Trail would fill their water barrels from Big Spring located behind the tavern pictured above. The town was platted in 1829 on this site, and in 1834 the tavern was built. Upstairs it had a ballroom as well as bedrooms. By the middle of the 19th century the town had grown to a small city of 1,000 residents.  Over time river traffic ebbed, railways and highways provided other pathways through central Missouri. During the Civil War the town went through some turbulent times-with secessionists firing on passing riverboats from the bluffs, and then the Union army taking over the town.  An army of guerillas then attacked the Union troops. Peace was slow in coming to Arrow Rock after the war. With the economic and transportation changes also hitting the town, the community went into decline by the end of the 19th century. Today there are about 50 in residence there.                    When we arrived at Arrow Rock we parked our car at the Visitor Center, and spent some time at the center orienting ourselves to the area. We then walked across a bridge and entered the town. A portion of the town is also preserved as Arrow Rock State Historic Site. We were informed at the center that we could get tours of the town, given by the Friends of Arrow Rock. Unfortunately in the town we found only an ice cream shop open and the proprietors there informed us that tours were not available that day. We were on our own again (as we had found ourselves in the town of Bethel), but the visitor's center did provided us the information needed for us to explore the town.

Dr.William Price Home

In the town over the years resided some very interesting and successful personages. Dr. Price(1812-1865) married Mary Ann Sappington. She was the daughter of Dr.John Sappington (1776-1856) who perfected and mass marketed malarial quinine. He was very much against the practice of bloodletting to treat patients. He also lived in Arrow Rock and established a political and economic dynasty that included three Missouri governors. Most unfortunately his museum was closed the day we were there. Dr.Price, his son-in-law, was his partner in the"anti-fever business".

George Caleb Bingham Home

The home of Missouri's famous 19th century artist (1811-1879), is located in Arrow Rock. It was built in 1837. I have always enjoyed seeing Bingham's early American paintings, several of which I found in the museum at the Visitor's Center. He was famous for his portraits,and scenes of river life. He also was active in politics, fighting against expanding slavery westward. One of his river scenes is pictured below.

"Fur Traders descending the Missouri"

We did not see everything there is to see in Arrow Rock, especially as all of the buildings were closed. I would like to return- possibly to also take in a show at the Lyceum Theater. I saw one show there years ago. The shows are first rate, of Broadway caliber, and only run during the summer months.. The theater is in a former Baptist church, built in 1872.

Lyceum Theater






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